Hell's Gate and Beyond

Saturday 6/30 :

When we parked here in this rest area last night at 9:00 PM, there were only 2 other occupants. Overnight it became the most popular place in British Columbia and in the morning it was packed. Today the REAL adventure began. We’re in British Columbia and later today we head straight north. Got up late and drove 3 miles to the Information Center. Loaded up on brochures, maps, and local lore. Drove 2 miles to Fred’s Sports. First Best People Experience with Rob the fishing expert who is nicely sarcastic and very knowledgeable. Got the net we needed, fishing licenses, and some salmon fishing gear. Then drove 10 miles to Bridal Veil Falls. Everybody likes waterfalls, and they were all there including 50 tweens from Washington, DC. The rain forest through which we had to walk was much better than the actual falls. Very lush and trees lavished with thick moss (see pictures). From Abbotsford to Hope we drove west to east in a beautiful valley a mile or so wide with mountains on either side. It was cloudy, but occasionally we could see the snow covered peaks. At Hope we turned north to follow the Fraser River on Route 1. The scenery is mind-bending. We traveled up stream in the river gorge looking down on white water rapids. Late in the afternoon, we took the aerial tram across the gorge at Hell’s Gate. This is a pinch in the gorge that has some of the most violent rapids and a spot that frustrated river travelers for centuries. Cool. Stopped this evening at a turn off and camped looking down on the river. Made only about 100 miles today. Cool.

6/30 Pictures


Rain Forest at Bridal Veil Falls




Fraser River Gorge






Tramming Down to Hell's Gate




RV and Cheap Jeep Camping on the River


















Brown Slug at Abbotsford--Our new pet






North of the Border Up Abbotsford Way

Friday 6/29 Again:

Left early this morning. Today we were essentially truck drivers. Our mission for the day was to chew up miles and get to Canada. 290 miles later, we’ve arrived, and are spending the night in a rest area in Abbotsford, BC. Drove through Seattle on the way. I was reminded of the many nights I’ve spent here. One of my favorite cities, but traffic is always an issue and today is was particularly obnoxious. This afternoon we spent a couple hours at Camping World in Burlington, WA, getting the tow brake indicator light fixed. Good experience. They fit us into their busy schedule and discovered that a blown fuse in the Jeep was the culprit. Our experience at the US/Canadian border was less satisfying. Our border patrol agent had clearly done well in her Gestapo 101 class. She was missing the leather trench coat and riding crop, but otherwise she was perfect. “We haf veys to make you talk”. While she was grilling us about possible contraband beer and the reasons we were carrying firearms*, a fabulous double rainbow materialized on the eastern horizon--intensely vivid colors against a leaden sky. Got some pictures, but none that captured the rainbow at its best.
* You can bring 12 cans of beer into Canada without paying duty. The correct answer on the firearms is, “protection against wild animals”. (Fraulein, I read the book!).

On The Edge Of The North

We have successfully navigated California, Oregon, and Washington. It's 5PM and we're wrapping up our emails before we cross the border (we'll have to hopscotch from WiFi hotspot to WiFi hotspot in Canada to get internet connections). We're very excited.

Oh how the mountains gorge on our gas!

Thursday 6/28/07

Got off to a gloriously late start. It's great not having a timetable.

The mountains today in northern California and Oregon were spectacularly beautiful but mean-spirited gluttons with our petrol. Up a 6% grade gulping gas--down a 6% grade slurping gas to feed the whining RPMs. The good news is that Oregon has relatively affordable fuel--less than $3.00/gal. And every drop is pumped by a paid professional. Only Oregon and New Jersey prohibit self-service gas stations. Kindred spirits on opposite shores?

No timetable, but... We have a minor problem with our breaking system for the cheap Jeep (you'll learn more later about CJ). Need to stop at a Camping World store (they installed the system) to get it diagnosed. We called every location in Oregon and Washington and none has time for us. Our only hope is to stand in line at the Burlington, WA, store tomorrow afternoon so we pushed a little today to be in position for the assault tomorrow. Camping World could be a nascent Wal-Mart. They're a specialty chain primarily focused on RV sales/service/parts/and accessories. Claim to be the biggest in the field. As more and more Boomers trade their 401Ks for opulent RVs, this chain probably gets much bigger fast.

Tonight we're at a rest area about 10 miles north of the Oregon/Washington border. Unremarkable location and it's raining. The trusty (most of the time) Admiral is dry as a bone.

A Rose Between Two Thorns




Nights 1 & 2 spent in rest stops with neighbors changing constantly. We wake up to the sound of one truck or RV leaving and another taking its place. As dawn broke on morning two, these were our companions.

Hooray! We're off at last!








Day 1 Wednesday 6/27/07

At 2:15 PM PDT, the mighty (sort of) Admiral began its epic journey north. Departure was two days late--we scrambled to the bitter end to make the last purchases and final modifications to the RV.

Hard to imagine that we've spent most of the last month working on this project, but in anticipation of 2 months in the wilderness (except Fairbanks, Anchorage, et al), we've laid in tons of supplies, reorganized space in the Admiral to accommodate our stuff, and prepared the good ship for its maiden exploratory "voyage".

Tons of supplies is not a figure of speech, but a cold reality. We know prices in the north are as steep as the crags of Denali, so we've done our best to provision the Admiral with all the staples.
While we've loaded aboard about a ton and a half of stuff for two people for two months, it's interesting to know that Canada required that each of the gold-rushers of 1898 carry along at least a ton of supplies and equipment. Sometime in the coming days I'll publish the 1898 list and compare it to ours. Should be interesting.

Tonight we're dry camping in O'Brien, CA. Pulled off in a rest area right next to Lake Shasta. As rest areas go, it's beautiful. Did almost 300 miles today in about 6 hours. We are clearly the slowest vehicle on the road. I don't think we passed anyone at all today. We are the tortoise and they who pass us the hares. They will drop off the map at Eugene or Portland or Seattle. We will trudge steadfastly north and will not stop until we reach the Artic Ocean. 3,102 total miles to Fairbanks (another 400 or 500 to the Artic Ocean).